Understanding Vietnam
This essay is by Jeremy Wellard, who is based in Hanoi. This is the first chapter of my new Vietnam 2014 book.
The only thing most people know of Vietnam is the Vietnam War. In Vietnam, they call it the American War, and it’s just old history. There is so much more to this youthful, thriving country.
Vietnam has long been considered the cultural and artistic heart of Asia, and the Vietnamese are the “Italians of Asia”. Highly social and heart-driven, with a penchant for drama and performance they are quick to raise their voices to sway a discussion, but equally quick to laugh off a misunderstanding. One of the greatest strengths of Vietnamese is their ability to find joy in everyday moments. Whether laboring in the fields or rushing through busy urban lives, they still find any excuse to put down their tools and laugh in conversation over a cup of tea.
Since opening up to the world in the late 1980s, the Vietnamese have been racing ahead at full speed. Years of struggle under a system of collective production left people ready to enthusiastically embrace capitalist ideals. Since the late 1990s, Vietnam has had one of the highest economic growth rates in the world. This rapid growth created a highly entrepreneurial environment where everyone seems to have a second or third business on the side.
Vietnam is the world’s only “Socialist-Oriented Market Economy”. This means the government maintains a large ownership and control of major companies, while small and medium businesses are left to develop freely.
Forget any notions of the frugal communist lifestyle. Wealth and possessions are flaunted as signs of success. People will spend many months’ salary for a status symbol like an iPhone, fancy motorbike, or designer clothes.
Yet there’s a deep-seated habit of saving money wherever possible. This can be seen in shops, where the air-conditioning is turned off until a customer walks in, or in the recycling culture where even used plastic bags have value. Vietnamese take great pride in their bargaining skills. When a new purchase is shown to friends, someone will immediately ask how much they paid for it. Ability to negotiate a good price demonstrates not just savvy but strong relationships.
Trading on relationships is key. A popular saying is, “First your family, second your friends, third comes money.” This means people will always look out for family and friends, but for outsiders their help comes at a price.
Strong family networks define the career and social lives of many Vietnamese. The government strongly recommends families have only two children, and most do. There are highly traditional expectations regarding responsibility to family, education, career choices, gender roles, marriage, and children. Newly wed couples live at the home of the husband’s parents until they can afford to buy their own house. Three generations often live together under one roof, and grandparents play an important role in providing childcare. Because of this in-home care, mothers usually return to work much sooner than the six months of maternity leave given by Vietnam’s labor laws, which strongly favor worker’s rights.
In Vietnam, the year and date of a person’s birth is very important. It influences their whole life, including when they are allowed to marry, open a business, hold important meetings and have children. Social interactions and forms of address are determined by age, so upon meeting a new person, one of the first questions Vietnamese will ask is what year they were born.
Because of a strongly collective past, where standing out from the crowd was potentially dangerous, new ideas may be regarded with caution. But once the viability of an idea is demonstrated, acceptance, imitation and adaptation rapidly follow. This tendency to follow others can lead Vietnamese to seem unoriginal in their thinking. But in fact their ability to quickly see an opportunity and willingness to capitalize on it creates a very dynamic and exciting environment.
Despite the collective past, upwardly mobile Vietnamese have fully embraced the concept that the individual who works smarter and has more relationships can have more than their neighbor. A new “me-first” culture is rising. But there still remains a highly structured society underneath. In many ways, Vietnam is perhaps both the most-collective and least-collective of the Asian cultures.
Vietnamese have been living with occupation, change and uncertainty for thousands of years and have developed community-based social systems that preserve order and personal freedom at a micro level, regardless of macro changes. As the local saying goes, “The rules of the village are stronger than the rules of the king.”
Unlike common misconceptions regarding Communist states, Vietnam is actually a democracy, and all citizens have the right to vote every three years. Although they can only choose candidates from one political party, within this party there are factions with very different viewpoints. Individuals have a lot of freedom in most areas of everyday life. Overall though, they tend to avoid openly discussing political issues. Speaking against the government, protesting high-level corruption, or promoting other political systems can incur severe punishments for locals and expulsion for foreigners.
Vietnam is chaotic, but far from lawless. The country has an advanced legal system. But there are many ways in which rules can seem more like guidelines. A “no” can become a “yes” with the right timing and persuasion. This can seem daunting, but those who understand the system are great at navigating its complexities. This is one of the main reasons foreign business people need a trusted local partner or good lawyer.
Foreigners are surprised that sociopolitical tensions are actually highest with China, rather than the United States, France, or Japan. Vietnam is increasingly wary of China’s growing power and territorial ambitions. This has caused a strong wave of anti-China sentiment where Chinese products, particularly food, are considered poor quality and unhealthy. It has also driven a celebration of products “Made in Vietnam” and is combining with a growing awareness of health and safety to birth a clean-food movement.
The only thing constant in Vietnam is change. Trends come and go, businesses open and close, and construction is a constant. The pervasive dust and noise are the sweat and tears of progress. But underneath this turmoil, there is a country that remains deeply Vietnamese, and people who are proud, ambitious, and happy to be open to a world of opportunities.
Gosh, it's amazing to learn more about Vietnam and it sounds like it's truly booming and continuing to grow. The way they flaunt their status symbols is so similar to american thinking and how they have learned to navigate around the laws by the power of persuasion is very interesting as well. Thanks again for sharing this information Derek and every time in the past when Vietnam has been mentioned it seems like a scary place because we just don't hear much about it, accept for negative comments about the Vietnam War.
Trey
More more more, please.
☺ Thanks Jim! — Derek
Wonderful, informative and entertaining essay! Thanks for sharing!
Hi Derek
As I spent a year there in 1967-68 and even though the War complicated many things I was able to see the beauty of Viet Nam and the possibilities of Viet Nam becoming a very important part of the World if not for the War at that time. I loved the culture there. I found the Vietnamese to be hard workers and very loyal to their beliefs and always family came first. The beaches were fantastic the Water was clear and blue Other than the War part, I enjoyed Viet Nam. We still communicate with a couple of friends I made while I was there.
Keep up the great work Derek, CD Baby changed the Music World. Wish you were still there but I'm happy that you are able to do what you want.
Gary Bradshaw
Thanks for these. You said in your email you had overloaded us with too many. I can say quite categorically that is not the case. More please :)
Thanks! Get the books, please. ☺ They're very worth it, and I spent 2 years and $115,000 making them. — Derek
Derek,
Fascinating stuff! It's such a pleasure to learn about some post-modern cultural aspects of Vietnam, rather than the crusty old perspective of a "war" that began a half-century ago.
Yeah it surprised me after all of my time and research about Vietnam, when I talked to an old friend in America - (one that has spent half her life outside the U.S., too, but mostly in Central America) - she said, “Vietnam? Really? I thought it was just jungle and war.” — Derek
After reading these 3 quick summaries on Singapore, Vietnam and Indonesia I am struck with a feeling of "will humans ever work together in one sweet world (as Dave Mathews says) or are we doomed by our greed and corruption?
Read all three articles and loved each one. Cultures that are different from ours, yet still seem to be able to find some freedom and joy in life within their society are fascinating finds, and for artists/musicians, can open up new avenues for potential fans, as well as becoming a fan oneself of their arts and music. Really cool, thanks much for this :-)
Learned a lot here. Please, keep posting these kinds of blogs. I really enjoy them, learn from them and love that they promote cultural awareness.
Just returned from my second trip to VN. It is striking how little meaning the 'American' war has for the people there. All eyes are focused on the NOW and the FUTURE. Most people make very little money, yet they seem happy in ways Americans aren't. Your piece rang true in every way. Thanks.
Great! i'd like to insist on the fact that it is a requirement to find a trustable local partner and a good lawyer rto succeed in Vietnam especially if you work in sensible domains.
Keep up the good work Derek!
"Vietnam is the world’s only 'Socialist-Oriented Market Economy'. This means the government maintains a large ownership and control of major companies..."
Sounds like fascism to me, but I wish them luck and I hope one day the Vietnamese discover real, unfettered, unapologetic capitalism, and all the individual rights that go with it.
I just returned from two weeks in Vietnam. It was amazing to feel the flow between the modern city life and ancient traditions of farming and daily rituals. There is a resourcefulness and a flexibility that is so admirable. You are right about how change is a constant. I loved integrity of the people I spend time with and the matter-of-fact conversations we had even though broken English. There's a vibe that is so progressive and curious - especially in the cities. So happy you are doing this series, D.
Derek, I am your fan for all time, but I think you have left something important out of these three SE Asia country reviews... My wife and I spent a month touring Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and the Philippines in 2012. Asia is wonderful, mysterious, broken, polluted, fantastic, crowded, amazing and did I mention HOT! Singapore is 20 miles from the equator... Hot Hot Hot day and night. Thanks for the insightful reviews on Vietnam and Indonesia. We will see these places next time.
The first prime minister of Singapore, Lee Kuan Yew, was recently asked what he felt the most important technology of the 20th century was. He said, “air conditioning.” ☺ — Derek
Hi Derek,
I really like your posts but have to react to this one. After spending some time in Vietnam and being raised in a communist country myself it gives me a heartburn reading "Unlike common misconceptions regarding Communist states, Vietnam is actually a democracy, and all citizens have the right to vote every three years." Every communist country gave people a right to "choose" from one party pretending they can vote. It is a big paradox of such regimes.
As pointed out later - "Speaking against the government, protesting high-level corruption, or promoting other political systems can incur severe punishments for locals and expulsion for foreigners." - the author actually confirms it without correlating these two together.
yes, Vietnam is amazing but it has its bumps and they are still pretty severe. Unfortunately, unless you have experienced it on your own skin, it is hard to notice it and it always gives an impression that all people are happy. That is "their" key.
Wonderful! Thank you so much for bringing this new perspective of Vietnam to my awareness. For so many here in the US who are old enough, the very name Vietnam conjures up the image of war and of friends who were sent there, broken dreams, heartache. I am so happy to hear that Vietnam is thriving now.
Everyone I've ever talked to who has been to Vietnam (granted that's not many, but more than one) has said, without hesitation, that it was their favorite country in the world. This was coming from some very well-traveled people. The general consensus seems to be that it is absolutely beautiful and the people are amazing. Makes me want to visit!
I am a Vietnam vet, I was in the infantry there in '70…years later, back at home I met a a beautiful and wonderful Vietnamese woman, we dated, we married. All of her immediate, most of the extended family are here, and all are US citizens. When we 1st met, I lived with her family, Mom, 3 of the 4 brothers, and a sister. They were, and are wonderful people. Much of what you said, rings true about their culture. They are hard workers, and love to get together with family, and eat, and tease and joke and laugh. Sometimes the family gathering are 50+ and everyone of them is kind and educated. They have welcomed me into the family,I'm a brother to her brothers and sister, a son to her Mom. They are some what Americanized now…but still love a good bargain! They rarely pay retail for anything! I have found them generally to be very clever, and diplomatic with each others and outsiders, and always willing to send money back to Vietnam to help a friend, or a cousin. I have learned much from them!
Hi Derek,
I really like your posts but have to react to this one. After spending some time in Vietnam and being raised in a communist country myself it gives me a heartburn reading "Unlike common misconceptions regarding Communist states, Vietnam is actually a democracy, and all citizens have the right to vote every three years." Every communist country gave people a right to "choose" from one party pretending they can vote. It is a big paradox of such regimes.
As pointed out later - "Speaking against the government, protesting high-level corruption, or promoting other political systems can incur severe punishments for locals and expulsion for foreigners." - the author actually confirms it without correlating these two together.
yes, Vietnam is amazing but it has its bumps and they are still pretty severe. Unfortunately, unless you have experienced it on your own skin, it is hard to notice it and it always gives an impression that all people are happy. That is "their" key.
I'm heading to Vietnam this year for the 2nd time - 1st time in 2005. I was really interested to read about the political system. I love this beautiful country and I'm looking forward to seeing how much it has progressed in 9 years.
Do you think these traditional values are practiced by Vietnamese communities in the US today? As a World Music person, I'd like to talk about it? Hope to talk soon?
Pheew......Doing business in Vietnam sounds really exhausting. Seems to me a person would have to stay pretty focused. Interesting culture.
Thanks Derek.
Very insightful and interesting information. I have thought of it on several occasions.
Thanks Derek:-)
Rachel
Interesting analysis. However, I almost fell out of my chair when I read the word "democracy". Yes they have the right to vote but as you said, it's a single-party government, and despite some minor viewpoints between its members, the change can hardly be a major one. Moreover, Vietnamese people are not really concerned by politics in general (unlike French people, just to compare). Whoever they vote for, the country will still be led by an authoritarian regime that doesn't accept any type of criticism and can only reply by sending opponents to jail.
(Now, I can play the devil’s advocate and say that in France, the government can be from Left Wing or Right Wing, well… the change is not that big either.)
Money. I can use a sentence that described Margaret Thatcher in her heydays: “Vietnamese people know the price of everything and the value of nothing”. When you say money comes third after family and friends, I'm afraid you're ways too optimistic. It comes equally first along with family. I feel Vietnamese are as obsessed with money as KISS’s Gene Simmons himself. Except that Simmons is able to make money, while Vietnamese chase it aggressively which leads to the result that they can’t make any in the end. More than just a matter of surviving, money became a value in itself, to the point that you can hardly mention any topic without having for sole reaction "Was it expensive?" or "How much did you pay?". I can tell a Vietnamese about my discovery of a new restaurant, never ever will they ask if it was any good or what food I ate. No. Only "Oh, and how much was your meal?". Sighs.
Service. Vietnam has also one of the worst customer services in the world. Trying to retain customers is perfectly unknown from them. This is understandable in a way, knowing that whether they work hard or not their salary will be the same ridiculous amount, why should they do any kind of effort?
Not only service in public places, but also maintenance and repairing can lead you to heart attacks. An example that still leaves me speechless was when technicians came to fix an internet cable in a house. The cable melted because it was too close to the aircon hot air exhaust pipe. So the techs came, removed the burned cable and put a brand new one that they put… exactly at the same place as the previous one, near the hot pipe. (silence) Sighs… That lack of ability to think by themselves is the result of living under authority from teachers, family, government, bosses, etc… The master-slave attitude is terribly infantilizing and that’s why Vietnamese who want to do something bigger or more creative with their life have no choice but to live abroad.
Vietnamese also heavily rely on ‘fate’. Anything happens, they use the same excuse ‘it’s fate, if it happens it’s because it had to happen’. Trying to make them understand that most of those inconveniences could have been avoided by a little effort or a little thinking only leads to a bland look and a quick change of topic. They use that holy ‘fate’ as an excuse to their laziness and it drives me nuts. That’s why you read news everyday about holes in the street, gas explosions in restaurants or customers getting an electric shock by using an ATM. That’s why nurses play cards in hospitals when the patient desperately asks for a painkiller. “If he hurts, well, that’s fate”.
One can argue that after all, it's a cultural difference and that we should accept it. But... Vietnam takes a huge pride in opening to the world, on becoming a major touristic destination, etc... But they're like a 7-years old kid who learns violin since two weeks and that suddenly has to perform a packed-up Madison Square Garden: they're just not ready yet. They will, for sure.
To end my comment with a positive note, Vietnamese people are usually generous, often treating you a good meal even when they struggle to pay their rent. They are resourceful, elegant and can be loyal friends. And those who dare some creativity are often fine artists.
This strikes me as an elegant and well-written piece. And I think there's a lot of truth in it.
That said, it pretty much leaves out the dark side, which is the problem I have with almost all travel writing.
Snowcat's observations are spot-on. Especially this: "I feel Vietnamese are as obsessed with money as KISS’s Gene Simmons himself. Except that Simmons is able to make money, while Vietnamese chase it aggressively which leads to the result that they can’t make any in the end."
I see this all the time - Vietnamese aggressively chasing money and instantly alienating customers.
Worse, Vietnamese men have a well-deserved rep for being extremely lacking in culture. In my town, they sit on the corner, drinking and gambling the money their girl friends earn. Meantime, the men mutter that passing women are sluts. Lovely.
@Derek: Very accurate! Thank you for everything
@Gary Bradshaw: Thank you for your beautiful words
Sincerely,
Wow i really didn't give Vietnam much thought outside of the war. Good insight!
Absolutely fascinating! I love this information. Thank you, the subject is fascinating and you explained it in such an engaging way.
If you have a chance to watch the Fog of War... you'll see the Vietnamese have viewed China as their hated enemy even before the "American War".
I am Vietnamese. I want to make friends with foreigners to practice English. If all of you want to know more about Vietnam. Do not hesitate to contact me. Thank you!
As a first generation Vietnamese American who has lived and worked in Saigon for almost 3 years this article is spot on even today.
I don't know how you extracted so many potent words from Vietnam but it was amazing!
☺ Thank you. — Derek
Such a deep understanding of Vietnam overall. In some cases, it seems easier for outsiders to truly see us than we do ourselves. Although the writing in 2014, it still truly represent the situation in 2017. Hats off to you.
;-) Thank you! — Derek
As for the air conditioning mentioned by Captain Billy Bones at comment #14, I have been to two U.S. southern states, Florida and Arizona, where I was struck by how new so many neighbourhoods, buildings and highways were. The older highways from before air conditioning seem so small.
Truly AC has remade America.