I hated Dubai until I learned about it
Dubai was in my “Top 5 places where I NEVER want to go”. I heard it was commercialized hedonism, glorified overindulgence, pandering to millionaires and influencers — extravagance and opulence. Everything I hate. That’s why I had never gone there.
Last year, when I was booking a flight to attend a conference, there was going to be a short layover in Dubai. My first thought was “yuk”. But when I notice I’m prejudiced against something, it makes me curious. So I made it a 3-day layover, to see Dubai for myself.
learning before going
Before going to Dubai, I read two books about the culture of United Arab Emirates, and one about the history of Dubai. And WOW, it was so fascinating.
First, about the United Arab Emirates. (U.A.E.) Like the United States or Switzerland, it’s a collection of states — called emirates — of which Dubai is just one. Like New York, Dubai can refer to the big state or the city inside it. Dubai the city is in Dubai the state, which is one of the seven emirates of the U.A.E. Abu Dhabi is the biggest emirate, and Abu Dhabi the city is the capital of the country.
OK, so two quick things I like about U.A.E. as a country:
#2:
Part of the problem in African countries is due to European leaders in the 1880s carving up African territories with straight lines, ignoring ethnic and linguistic divides, tribal territories, existing kingdoms, and even geography.
So when United Arab Emirates was becoming a country in 1971, its founders did the opposite.
They went village to village, tribe to tribe, asking each which ruling family they were loyal to.
Then that’s where they drew the boundaries between states.
It’s more complex but more accurate, as it respects personal allegiances and relationships.
I admire that care.
#1:
Sheikh Zayed, the father of the nation and its first president.
I love this guy.
The folk-legends of his generosity inspire me.
He gave UAE its moral DNA.
Religious tolerance, women’s rights, helping poorer nations, and gentle diplomacy to settle disputes.
Like Lee Kuan Yew in Singapore, some founders leave such an influence on the culture of a country that just being in that place makes me want to be a better man.
UAE constitution guarantees women the same legal status as men, and equal pay. UAE has a greater percentage of women in parliament than do the US, UK, France, Canada, Greece, Ireland, Japan or Poland. Companies and government agencies are required to have women on their boards of directors.
The book “City of Gold”, about the history of Dubai, was so good — so well-written — that it made me really admire Dubai and Sheikh Rashid, its ruler who was responsible for the bold and savvy decisions that turned it from a tiny village into what it is today. See, Abu Dhabi has 95% of the oil, Dubai only has 4%, so Dubai had to be smarter, more competitive, and attract business to thrive. Sheikh Rashid was thinking long-term, had a vision of Dubai’s huge potential, and invested everything into its development in the 70s, even against his advisors’ advice. It seemed crazy at the time, but paid off in a big way 15-30 years later. It was quite entrepreneurial.
After reading these three books, I was so excited to go.
Arab hospitality
I especially love that Arab culture’s top value is hospitality. It’s understandable when you consider its Bedu origins. A stranger, riding across the harsh desert, arrives at your home, hungry and thirsty. You welcome them in, no matter who they are. You give them food and drink, and let them stay as long as they need.
The book “Arabian Sands”, set in the 1940s, describes this well. His Bedu colleagues had the absolute highest admiration for a man they knew that used to be wealthy, but slowly gave absolutely everything he had to his community and visiting strangers, leaving him with literally nothing.
Before flying to Dubai, I contacted a Saudi guy I met once in England. He had emailed me out of the blue a few years earlier and we had a meal and great conversation in Oxford. It was my first time meeting someone in full Arab outfit - the white robe and headdress with the black rope. I emailed him to say I was coming to Dubai, asking if he’d be around to meet. He replied, “My friend! Cancel your hotel! You will stay at my home in the Burj Khalifa!” I said, “Wow! Thank you. OK. It’ll be great to see you.” He said, “No, I won’t be there. I’m in Riyadh. But my uncle will pick you up at the airport and give you the keys, so you can stay as long as you like.”
The legendary hospitality is real. I had his home to myself for those three days. It was amazing. That’s Ali AlBallaa of AZM. So kind.
local tips before my trip
Lucas Skrobot is an American living in Muscat, Oman. He noticed I was reading books about UAE and Dubai, and asked about my interest. I told him I want to understand the local culture. He said I must meet Mohammed Kazim from Tamashee who leads cultural trips around the region, and is a wealth of historical and cultural knowledge. I thought he was going to be an ancient man with a long beard, but we’ll get back to him in a minute.
Elliot Shimmin is a Brit who was living in Abu Dhabi. He emailed me in advance and said I must go to the Centre for Cultural Understanding, and most of all, the Al Shindagha Museum. I’m so glad he did. We’ll get to that in a minute, too.
Dubai is the bar in Star Wars
As soon as I arrived at the Dubai Airport, I felt like I was in the cantina in Star Wars.
People from all over the galaxy, wearing traditional clothes from Nigeria, Qatar, Ethiopia.
Some women covered in full niqab.
Some wearing almost nothing and covered in tattoos.
Russians, Indians, and sunburnt Brits.
Big bushy beards and hippie dreadlocks.
Three-piece suits and shiny shoes.
Flowing robes and sandals.
Later in the Dubai Mall, I sat sipping tea for hours on the middle floor, just people-watching. I could sit in this place and watch all of humanity go by. As an amateur anthropologist, it’s heaven. This is the modern international trading port, like the legends of the Silk Road. Intersections of culture. East-meets-west, etc. This is it, here and now. This is where everything converges.
I’ve lived in New York City, London, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Singapore. I love how multi-cultural they are. But nothing like this! Those cities are about 35% immigrants, whereas Dubai is almost 90%. My cultural curiosity has found its culmination.
I asked random strangers where they’re from. Every answer was different. Cameroon. Kerala. Pakistan. Tanzania. Philippines. Kuwait. Kazakhstan. Each was happy to tell me their story of why they moved to Dubai.
A man from the border of Pakistan and Afghanistan told me how he moved here twenty years ago, and has been bringing over family members every year, so now where he lives in Sharjah, just north of the city, there are over 120 of his relatives living in the same neighborhood. UAE welcomes immigrants and makes it easy for anyone talented to come and work. The population is 11 million but they are planning for 20 million, in infrastructure and housing.
The perfume house at Al Shindagha
I spent my first day in Dubai at the Al Shindagha museum, which I highly recommend. It shows you Emirati culture, history, geography, and artifacts. It’s made up of a bunch of little buildings that were traditional homes. One subject per building.
One of the buildings is just about perfume, so I tried to skip it. I had no interest in girly perfume. But when I asked the guide how to go around it, she explained that it would be kind of difficult, so I might as well just go through it. I’m so so glad I did. This little building is now one of my favorite places on earth.
It has many different scents kept in airtight cylinders, so you can press a button to release a bit of the aroma, smell it, and close it again. No need to dab it on anything. You can smell the origin of incense, like oud, amber, and musk. Oud was my favorite. I couldn’t get enough. I kept going back to that cylinder.
And frankincense!! Oh my god. No wonder this stuff is legendary. Wait until you smell it. It’s amazing.
Incense is used all around public spaces in UAE, so to me it’s the first thing I remember when I think of being there. Those wonderful smells. I miss them so much.
One of the most interesting men I’ve ever met
Lucas drove up from Oman, and met me with Mohammed Kazim at the Tamashee store-front. The next four hours with them was one of the most interesting conversations I’ve ever had in my life.
First, since he was described as a wealth of cultural and historical knowledge, I was expecting to meet an old man, but he’s younger than me! And though he’s dressed in full Kuwait-style thobe, he has an American accent, and talks just like my old friends.
- his grandfather built the first building in central Dubai
- he went to Boston for college
- back in Dubai after America, felt that the Bedu roots of Arab culture were getting lost
- left the world of finance to start two passion projects: Tamashee traditional sandals, and cultural tours around the Arabian Peninsula
After I arrived, and he gave me the traditional coffee and dates, I asked his interest in traditional Arab culture.
He said:
“In Boston, I was missing home, and read a book about the Bedu culture in the 1940s. We used to let nothing go to waste. A foreigner threw a date pit in the fire, and the local Bedu man immediately rescued it, saying ‘In the desert, we can’t afford to waste anything.’ Now look around at all the water we waste. We’ve lost touch with what made this culture great, so I want to help people reconnect with the roots of our culture.”
I asked him a question about the local culture, and he said, “It depends if you’re talking about the people from the desert, versus the coast, versus the mountains.”
I said, “Where is your family from?”
He said, “From the desert, but then two uncles got in a fight, splitting the family, and half went to Iraq for a while. They reunited in Abu Dhabi, but then Islam came along...”
I interrupted, “Wait. Islam came around the year 620. Have you been telling me your family history from two thousand years ago?”
He said, “Well, 1800 years ago, yeah.”
I said, “How on earth do you know your family history back that far?”
He shrugged, “We keep good records.” (I’ve asked other Emiratis since, and they all seem to know their family history this far back.)
Wow. Mohammed and Lucas and I ended up talking for hours about culture, history, religion, and more. Now I meet up with Mohammed every time I go through Dubai, and I hope to eventually take all of his cultural trips.
I want to live there
I’ve been back to UAE a few times since, getting to know many people that live there, and still love it. My best friend grew up in Abu Dhabi and raves about it. My interest in this part of the world feels bottomless. I love the culture and people. I still haven’t been to the other GCC countries, but I want to live there. Then you can all stay at my home, so I can return some of that hospitality.
Books to learn more:
I stay a few months every year in Dubai. If I can help you or anyone else coming here who reads this comment, please let me know.
Dubai is indeed a great place to live. Reach out when you're in town next.
A person does not live by bread alone.
My country offers people something that Dubai does not, something beyond years of mere residence: We offer a feeling of being a member... as in duty, loyalty and citizenship, as in the right to fight and die for our country.
I believe the area might be so much better experienced by "men". We keep being informed about women held in Dubai after drinking wine, or women arrested in Dubai after reporting rape. It might be an exciting place to visit, although women needs to learn their rights and strict codes of conduct beforehand. They shouldn´t act as if they´re in New York.
Fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, Derek. Those of us who share your cultural curiosity (to an extent) love this kind of blog.
Once again, thank you.
You dispelled a bias I had never challenged.
And you would always be most welcome in our modest, 100+ year old home in our small, beautiful new England town. As we tell most guests, if we're not home, use your key...
Very interesting! Thanks for sharing,
you really are all over the place!
Diane
Good story. Makes me even more curious about Dubai and the UAE. But I won’t go because I can’t support or pretend to ignore the modern slavery and human trafficking that built the UAE. Since you studied the history and culture of the UAE and Dubai how can you not mention the well-known and ongoing abuses? Some of those people you saw in the airport will have their passports confiscated and end up living in shipping containers with no air conditioning. Others will get victimized by the rampant prostitution, where foreign women get abused and then prosecuted under harsh laws that protect the locals and wealthy expats.
Every place has its problems (I live in Bangkok, originally from USA). But the UAE seems on another level in terms of human rights abuses carried on openly.
Now I do too
> U.A.E. constitution guarantees women the same legal status as men
While at the same time, it is forbidden by law for *women* to marry non-muslim men there. And women are being jailed for reporting rape. Ah, the gender-equality of UAE...
Great piece Derek! Sounds like an awesome place to experience. How is the music? I do a world travel/music/culture project called Banjo Earth and have thought about putting U.A.E. on the list. Sounds like they would welcome my banjo and curiosity. All the best, Andy
The world looks different when traveling or living as a man. "Women's rights" is a bit misleading.
www.expatica.com/ae/living/gov-law-admin/womens-rights-in-the-united-arab-emirates-71118/
Which includes:
Women over the age of 18 must still get approval from their guardian to marry or travel abroad. In fact, a husband can legally withhold his wife’s passport to stop her from traveling.
Employment rights
Legally, women in the UAE receive equal pay for equal work. They can freely work in jobs of their choosing, including in the government – but only if they have the consent of their guardian.
Rape and domestic violence
Domestic violence is legal in the UAE because Islam allows a husband to chastise or discipline his wife and minor children. Sadly, when women go to the police to report violence the police don’t always take claims seriously, because they are considered a private domestic matter. Wives are obligated to obey their husbands. Rape victims seeking support can be, and have been, charged with illicit sex – which is illegal and criminalized in the UAE. In this respect, women’s rights in the United Arab Emirates fall short of other cultures around the world.
Female genital mutilation
Female Genital Mutilation (FGM) is banned in state hospitals and clinics in the UAE; however, there are still some private clinics and rural areas where this happens. There are no numbers on how widespread FGM is, however, a 2011 study found that 34% of participants had undergone some form of FGM.
But yes, sounds like a glorious place to live (for men). Enjoy!
I have been living in Dubai for the past 16 years—almost half my life has been spent here. If I were to describe this place in one word, it would be "fancy." I am originally from the Philippines, and I greatly admire the leadership of Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. The Emirati people are truly kind.
I hope to see you when you return to Dubai. I've been your fan for over a decade now!
Thanks for sharing your experience, Derek.
Based on at least one comment below and also my own concern of being a woman who travels, often on my own, I'd be interested in learning how safe it is for women travelers.
I’ve visited twice: once in 2001 and again in 2018. In 2001, I walked near the creek, hired a boatman who spoke little English to take me up and down it, found small communities of expats and locals and heard from a few people who thought the Burj Al Arab would be seen as a white elephant in a few short years. 2018 couldn’t have been more different. I felt like the city was an immersive VR experience. Everyone I spoke to – Indians, Sri Lankans, Filipinos – loved living and working there. Would love to go back. Your experience feels familiar to me. I once posted a photograph taken in Dubai and a commenter told me that the things I mentioned were all the reasons he would never visit. His loss.
Should stay more than 3 days, pick the correct friend and see and talk to...
↘ the migrants laborers, how they live the low wages and the labor camps=> house a large number of workers in cramped quarters.
↘ the residents, many with low-income that struggle to support families back home on limited earnings.
↘ the list that goes on...
How we say in Brazil : "Not all that glitters is gold"
WOW!
Love this!
What an inspirational story. It is great when we open our eyes and discover an entire new world that we never imagine. Literally and figuratively. Thank you Derek for inspiring me and many others
How do they keep those 1800 year records? I call BS. That's like millions of people.
I enjoyed reading your takeaways from visiting the United Emirates, in addition to learning what you gleaned from researching the area. Another author visited the area some 13 years ago and provided a slightly different observation, possibly because he was trying to determine the Happiness Index or Happiness Meter. The Happiness Meter for 2023 has Dubai at 96% on the Happiness
Index, which is substantially higher than it was in 2013. At the time, he was not impressed with the museum.
I'm glad to read that you do read some people's emails, and I hope we've all come to the conclusion that it's not wise to judge anything before a thorough investigation.
I don't travel. If I did, my #1 destination would be Dubai. Thanks for the inspiration!
Thank you for sharing all the details of your journey, and assume your place better be sizeable from all the guests you will be entertaining in the years to come.
I spent two weeks in Muscat, Oman in February 2000 (wasn't sure the trip would happen with the run-up to Y2K). One evening I struck up a conversation with a young man running down the near-deserted beach. He was a linguist in the Omani Army and wanted to practice his English. He invited me back to his place for a lovely dinner and conversation.
I have very fond memories of the rugged beauty and lovely people. I'm not surprised you have fallen in love with the area.
Thank you for your emails. I must admit that I don’t always get to read every email you send, but I’m very glad that I read this one. Under the circumstances here in the states, I’m seriously considering traveling and and maybe even relocating. Thanks to you the UAE is now one of the top on my list. Take care and maybe we can sit down for a bite or a drink in the UAE someday. Happy travels!
It is painfully obvious that 'this thing we call life' is boundless. Thank you Derek for showing us what we should already know. This thing called life is truly what we make of it. There is so much to see, do, and learn.
Do it NOW.
Thanks for sharing! Particuarly timely as I'm travelling to Oman in 10 days with some musicians who are performing at the opera house. I reached out to Lucas on the off chance he was interested a ticket...
Great article! Thank you so much for sharing, totally changed my impression of Dubai and U.A.E
I had the privilege of visiting the UAE to conduct an accreditation visit at the UAE University. It's in Al Ain, one of the oldest inhabited locations in the world (there is an oasis there). I spent only a small amount of time in Dubai. I got on the wrong elevator at my hotel with a group of young Russians. They were going to the disco located at the top of the hotel and wanted me to join them. I had to decline (I'm in my 70s, after all). Most of our time was at the University. We visited a class that had men on one side of the classroom, women on the other. It's unusual because mostly the classes are completely separate. A young female student sat next to me during one of our sessions. She was incredible, and going to the US for a semester (my recollection may not be totally accurate). I wondered how they can maintain the separation of males and females when students like this one travel outside the Middle East. Religion can be a powerful force, I realize.
I'm not in a rush to return, but a wonderful, short visit for me. As you say, the hospitality is beyond compare.
Cool! I have been wanting to go to Al Ain. Seems like Palm Springs. — Derek
So interesting to hear your perspective! I had only ever heard not so great things about Dubai, especially its use of practically indentured workers from abroad for its construction projects and seeming mismanagement of resources to create an illusion of a rich and powerful city. So cool to hear about Bedu culture and the roots/history of the country. I hope Mohammed can succeed in bringing his people more towards their roots.
Sounds like an amazing adventure. Like a honeymoon, I am sure the novelty and new realties would bring one back to the earth with time. And yet, the description is enticing. Thanks for the great blog.
Love this article. Your process of acquisition of knowledge and presentation as always is efficient and encouraging. I similarly had ignorant views of the reality of what it might be to visit let alone live in Dubai or the general UAE proper. That said you've motivated me to not only visit but to prep and read the books. Thank you.
The guy from the border of Pakistan/Afghanistan sounds like a pashton. Also sounds like he's been bringing family over as labourers. If they live in the same neighborhood it's because they live 10-30 to a house in the most cramped conditions you can imagine. Maybe you can visit some labourers on your next visit. Modern slavery is real. The magnificence of Dubai is built upon it.
Great Share! I too had, post tense after reading this, reservations about Dubai, but your excitement and positive energy makes me want to visit and see the amazing diversity! This is why we read, to learn and be inspired to change! Thanks Brother D! Johnny A!
Amazing piece!
I live in Dubai since 2019 and as a Brazilian woman is truly remarkable you were able to see the UAE/Dubai way beyond the typical stereotypes that most people get stuck on. I moved here to work for a fully funded graduate program that hires around 30 young minds from all over the world to do consultancy projects for the govern. They literally paid all expenses to come here for almost a year to work and study hard/soft skills (and I lived in a 5 star hotel). It runs with the patronage of HH Sheikh Mohamed and on the first week we learnt the story of Dubai but also about vision. A big sentence is “if you built, they will come” - straight from Field of Dreams. This place is really inspiring and it completely changed the lives of many people for the better.
However, living in Dubai is a different beast! There are many challenges in here. They say NY is a city based on what you have, San Fran of what you know and LA on who do you know. Dubai is definitely a city based on what you have. The social status race is palpable and almost infectious to be honest. But right now, makes sense for me. I was able to set up a small company and I sponsor my own visa - as a Brazilian woman. When I apply in the free zone they said they were looking for people just me like (I am a solo entrepreneur) and they said “we look for super man, but in your case super woman”. It was two full grown up men in Kandora. It’s insane. Today; one of my closest friend here is a half Palestine half Emirati woman and she is the terminator, the most competent professional I met in my life. It’s inspiring and amazing!
But again, so so many layers. She was born from the second wife and I learnt with her about the culture and traditional. I briefly dated a man from Kuwait and learnt the challenges from people from other GCC countries too. Sadly, most expats live in a bubble and don’t interact with locals or with people from completely different cultural backgrounds too. As a single woman, is hard for the love life - most man want the Russian model or they feel they don’t want to create roots here. Again, layers!
Please, come back! So much more to share. Glad you enjoyed staying in the Burj, even with the crazy security. We joke here that living in the Burj is no fun because then you don’t have a Burj view…
Well captured, explains a lot why my fellow countrymen like going there for work and to visit. Sounds very fascinating.
Hi Derek,
Wow.
I had the same sentiments and your curiosity has opened my eyes, thank you.
Now I would love to go and see what sounds like such a beautiful, warm, and welcoming place.
What airlines have you used to travel to/from Dubai?
Thank you, too, for the reading suggestions!
Warm regards and thank you,
-Brooke.
What an interesting article. It made me want to visit as well.
a little more...
...doing a bit more looking and seems that non-heterosexual folks are discriminated against...
and although laws have decriminalized pre-marital sex and related... it may be challenging for that as well.
just sayin'
Thank you Derek. Like you, till now, I have had no interest in Dubai. Now I am curious and want to learn more. They sound like wonderful people.
Really enjoyed this, thank you.
My 28 year old son has lived there for 1.5 years.
We visited for a month this year and spent a month there.
I loved it.
It feels like the future, but the future in a good way.
Wow!
I want to go live there right now. If this was easy, what would be the smoothest way for a single Aussie 55 year old guy to be immersed in the culture for 3-6 months.
UAE, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Kuwait. 2-12 weeks each on a tourist visa, then you could repeat the circuit again. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visa_requirements_for_Australian_citizens — Derek
Dude! I noticed I was still prejudiced while reading how your curiosity gets you through being prejudiced ; ) Ah...it feels good on the other side. Thanks again for leading me, by interesting invitation, through I'm openly curious to visit. Cheers Derek
Fascinating read, thanks so much for putting this together and writing about your experience in Dubai!
I’ve been apprehensive of travelling to Dubai as well - mainly becuase of the hedonistic framework that it lives in.
After reading your post, I think I might have done a disservice to my soul and am keen on heading there soon. My wife is going to be surprised, or shocked when I tell her this - because it’s been something I’ve been putting off for about two decades now.
Thanks, Derek for giving me a new perspective!!
I have experienced their culture on several trips
it truly is interesting :)
Love this story, Derek. Got me curious and want to visit Dubai. Thank you for sharing, Derek.
Great writing. Thank you for sharing. Visited Dubai and Abu Dhabi earlier this year. Was pleasantly surprised. Like you, it was also not in my list. The one thing that amazed me is the law and order. Absolutely class. Also gentlemen and ladies have a certain kind of aura which is unmatched.
One more thing, recently visited Almaty in Kazakhstan. And it was beauty. Will highly recommend you to visit. It also has great history.
Now plan for Qatar in your itinerary.
You will love it as well. The soccer World cup
has made Qatar a tourist destination in the Middle East.
I want to get to know the whole region, definitely. — Derek
Rich history, generous people, amazing cuisine. All they need is a parkrun and I'm there with you.
Lovely read, thank you for sharing this.
Since I have a significant other who's really interested in living in the UAE for a while for work, I was always very skeptical of these wishes. This helps me see Dubai in a different light.
I’ll definitely stay if you move there!
Not a safe place to be queer or female en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGBTQ_rights_in_the_United_Arab_Emirates
Kind of expected better from you tbh Derek.
This is great. Thanks so much for sharing!
I’ve stayed in both Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Whilst they are amazing places, and more tolerant than many countries in that part of the world, it remains the case that women are treated differently in many respects.
There is a strange disconnect between tourist areas and non-tourist areas in some aspects too.
Refreshing read, thanks for sharing your experience in Dubai. Indeed it’s a really eye-opening place and truly unique.
Looking forward to when you come to Kuwait, U.A.E.’s modest younger brother :-).
I really enjoyed just reading your blog and feel I have learned a lot from it. Many years ago it was suggested to me by a woman friend in Dubai that I moved there. I thanked her for inviting me but didn't go. My reason being that I thought I would hate it for the same reasons you give at the start of your article. I added in that I thought it would be too hot, there would be no wildlife and nature, which I love to see, and that my cat would hate it too because of the heat. Having read what you have said about Dubai, I think I was wrong.
Wow! I never knew Dubai is this interesting. I'm sold when you said Dubai is the the bar in Star Wars!
Hi Derek. I loved your text. I am Brazilian woman (41),and I have been living (alone) in Dubai for the last 15 years. Most of my friends are from the Surf community in the region, which I am a part of - and, just as you said,they are each from a place of the planet. Some of the them were born in Dubai, but their parents were from all kinds of places. And now these friends are raising the next generation: kids born in Dubai from parents from different countries, and it's amazing to see them thrive in a place where there are no cultural borders and is so safe that kids can run in the streets to play, just like we used to back in the 80-90's.. These kids will never need to try understand the joy we have from meeting people from different places, because that's their reality from the moment they are born - and it shows. They are so cultured in a level that cannot even be compared to any other place in the world. How amazing would it be if more places in the world embraced this cultural mix in the way that Dubai has? I can tell you many stories... Ah, and it's valid to mention that as a woman living in Dubai I have never felt fear, unsafe or judged. My mantra is "Dubai is what you make it". So why not make it great.
Thanks for sharing your research and experience. Your writing makes it sounds very enticing even to me, and I’m not particularly interested in travel. Wishing you happiness!
A post like this makes me want to break the chains of my mind & return to my exploratory roots. Thx for the inspiration Derek.
I am interested in visiting there too, and it seems that they cherish the western culture more than the western countries.
But the country I want to move (back) to next is the US and I can not wait to see what the new administration can do to fix it.
I am sensing a rebirth of the original US as intended by the founding fathers.
I have never felt so optimistic about the US, the West and the rest of the world.
Hi Derek, A great read.
I was surprised by the tolerance for woman that you suggested, but seemingly countered a bit but many of the comments below, such as commentors #10, and #12. I don't know if the #10 and #12 spent much time in Dubai, so it would be good to hear more about this from boots on the ground women.
You saw the positive side of it. As you can see from several commentators here, it's not that simple. You told the story once of how you bought a pizza for a hungry lecturer. Good idea. It created a positive bond between you and someone you later got help from (if I remember right).
But hey: Is our "job" on Earth to make friends with people who can help us on our way, or could it be to help those who have a really difficult life and are systematically treated wrongly? I'm OK and I live a comparatively modest life, last time I rode an aeroplane was in 2017 but I'm OK. Do I care for those who are treated like slaves? Should you?
I know you like thinking, so I suggest you think about these things too!
I once spent a day in Abu Dhabi and was randomly invited back to someone's house for tea, so can attest to the hospitality piece. There's a similar culture in Senegal, they even have a name for it - teraanga. Do you think it's common to muslim cultures in general? Dubai and the UAE in general are so fascinating. Thanks for sharing!
Lots of great info! Thanks for sharing!
And let me know whenever you're in Kuwait! 😍
(I won't be able to offer a place to stay, especially one that compares to Burj Khalifa, but we'll have lots of great food the belly and the brain)
It's very disappointing to see essentially a puff piece on Dubai that ignores all the very real issues with the country. This reads like a paid advertisement more than any sort of honest appraisal.
It's great that your very well off friend showed you a lot of hospitality, but that welcome isn't extended to the migrant workers that are essentially permanently stationed there and are treated like 2nd class citizens.
Great post. Very enlightening! Thank you! :-)
There are many good things about Dubai , But There are also a lot of Bad things that are hidden from a tourist .
The labours living condition for example is tragic 😥.
Ruler of Dubai's harsh treatment of his female member of family is another .
Overall depends which part of the society we will be placed at and how long can one live there after every new thing has been explored .
Good luck 👍 💓
Very interesting indeed. That said, I am glad there were others adding context re: women's rights, migrant's rights, etc.
While this place is progressive within the Arab and Muslim worlds, it is not as one-sided as your experience suggests.
Yes, and I bet if you 'pulled a Derek Sivers' and decided to move there, set up a biz and tried to get PR, then your experience would be totally different. You might even end up back in NZ. :)
Hi Derek , this is such a beautiful piece on the many aspects of the Gulf , although this is about Dubai many countries in the Gulf have so much history and culture . I grew up in Bahrain and never had the opportunity to visit the UAE . I like how you’ve shown the world how amazing and how far that country has come . My father worked as a handyman for the royal family of Bahrain and we have such beautiful memories of our childhood with their family . I never really appreciated the vast history of the Gulf , this makes me want to go back and visit and learn more .
Thanks for your time
Derek, I've always enjoyed your writings, starting with Hell Yes or No. But this one has had a profound effect on me. I previously thought, as many Americans do, that UAE, Iraq, Iran, were all just oil-rich (and our autos made them that way) repressive terrorist societies. But your take on UAE has been eye-opening, enough so that I want to know more. Thanks for opening the door...........
:-) — Derek
You're more than welcome to stay at our place in Dubai Marina anytime to experience that side of Dubai.
Also, if you ever plan on visiting Bahrain feel free to let me know.
I had the same experience. Dubai? An upscale desert mall? No thanks. It opened a closed mind in so many ways...
Coincidence! I am reading it while waiting at the Stockholm Arlanda airport on my way to Kolkata with a stopover in Doha, Qatar. I prefer to travel with stopover at a middle-east city because it is the fastest route. After reading, I am encouraged to take an extended stopover of few days in Dubai or Doha or Abu Dhabi for my next travel.
I can't help attaching the picture!
photos.app.goo.gl/4E5TEgbyUXh7PbtL6
Thanks for that. I have always wondered about Dubai and UAE. It seemed like a secular Arab/Muslim country on paper, but I wondered what it was like in practice, and would they be tolerant of outsiders. Sounds like they are. No now I want to go. No wonder so many people move there to work.
It's interesting how learning about things we hate can completely change our minds. I am going to think of something I don't like and learn about it. Thanks for the prompt!
Great read, Derek!
I'm glad you enjoyed the country I called home for 2 years (2016-18). Every time people ask me what I like the most, I always say: "the energy of the place".
It's crazy the amount of human energy in that city and what it can achieve as whole, not to mention the Vision of its leaders, which is something we don't have in the West, now more than ever.
Reading some comments here makes me wonder if everyone is living in a country with 100% equality, high moral values (at least better than the UAE), no low-paid workers, OR if those same people do not buy anything from China or India. I guess it makes them feel better that way. Well, it's their loss!
This is an awesome travelogue, Derek. The humanity and warmth of your cast of characters (thru photos or your descriptions) leaps off the screen. And UAE/Dubai sound fascinating. Thanks for sharing.
This is fascinating, Derek! I was of the same opinion as you were. This totally turned around my thinking. Thanks for sharing this info. Now I want to go to Dubai.
Great read Derek!
I know a couple not too far from me, who used to work in Dubai. They loved it at first, made a great income, but soon missed their own country, Canada. They have an old ranch house in the country and said they feel like they're in paradise....!
Oh my. I find it fascinating that even the most well-read people can fall into such oblivious conclusions.
Where in the hell in GCC countries do women have equal rights as men? Many comments have already mentioned the actual issues that arise naturally due to your sex, so I will not go into that again. But I really want to know if you met any women during your time there, or if all the men you met who keep bragging about their "culture" had anything to say about women's rights (that are supposedly so equal) or the actual slavery going on.
No, what I rather want to know is whether you are actually not realizing that all the rights belong only to men and the rich, or if you are very well aware and got paid for this piece. I truly hope it's the latter because otherwise, it's so sad how uninformed you are about the world and your own entitlement in it.
This is beautiful! Great article about Dubai and the UAE. I have learned quite a bit from this.
Hi Derek, this is superb - thank you so much for sharing. I was completely in the same boat as you were, before travelling there, when I started reading this. Now I'd go out of my way to check it out. Thanks for sharing
Ben
Well that sounds extraordinary Derek. What beautiful tales and and people. I love this
I carried the same biased view of this part of the world that you did. Thank you for opening my eyes.
What a beautiful article and what a timing for me to read it when I’m in the process to relocate with my wife from Amsterdam to Dubai.
We will be moving in January, and I read many of your followers are there already, would it be good to have a Derek’s followers meet up in Dubai one day?
Great way to connect with other people (and with you of course!)
This is an amazing series of recollections. I learned a lot from just this little account. My only knowledge about the UAE is from the series Ultimate Airport Dubai, which showed what I think is the largest international hub. Reality TV is sculpted, so I always take the personalities with a grain of salt, but you make me think that perhaps the liberal aspect to the culture may indeed be real. It sounds like I too would love to visit.
Great read, thank you. I was surprised to get your opinion. Mos Eisley is a perfect metaphor to the Dubai airport.
My dad’s sister and her husband moved there in ‘94 and I’ve been visiting ever since and there’s a lot to marvel and ponder about this phenomenon of a city state.
As for living there, how do you get past the commercialism, the opulence, the preponderance of imported brands, products and social norms in the city?
Dear Derek!
Dubai is very glamorous. Full of beautiful things. Seems to have money flowing like glitter from a waterfall...
For myself, I seek to find the one path to peace.
Much love to You dear Derek!!
Rachel:-)
Wov this is fantastic, Swedish sitting in kenya and work and found you text amazing. Keep posting. If I can help pleae reach out . and if you want to come to Sweden I will host you. If I get back :) of course.
many thanks Simon!
best regards
Jonas Sundsten
I love this! I love how you lean into your own prejudices and move past them. Inspirational!
Thank you for the great post, Derek. I always had a prejudgment towards UAE, I don't even know from where I had it. But this post really opened my eyes.
Will visit, and will definitely learn more about.
Thank you, Derek, for your travelogue in Dubai. I admit I, too, have reservations due multitude reasons. I am very curious though on how do they treat the Deaf population? Do Deaf children have a good Deaf education there? How is the Deaf Culture there?
Since I am not a city person, unless the cities are authentically ancient and well preserved (like in Turkey)... I'm curious other than the desert (which I do like - I camped in San Juan desert, Colorado many years ago). What other natural sites would you (they) recommend for nature lovers to check out? Lastly, as some female commenters mentioned - Arabians have strong stance of dividing men and women there. So still too nervous to visit - not convinced just yet.
wow. OK, I'll visit!! xo
Brilliant podcast!
I have a carer from Kenya who spent a lot of his life in Dubai and I think he would enjoy hearing this podcast too, so I'll forward it to him :-)
I've been curious about Dubai and wonder how it would be for an American woman traveling solo to go there. Anyone care to advise?
Also on my long term not go to list, seems like you really enjoyed Dubai.
The thing that came up for me, reading your interesting account of it, is remembering reading about North Korean tourism, and how tourists there get the deluxe, carefully curated "North Korea is fabulous" presentation😂😬
Hey Derek, this sharing is timely as will be heading to Dubai and Abu Dhabi in end Jan.
Haven't been to Abu Dhabi before but was in Dubai more than 10 years ago.
Heard lots of changes happened since so would be interesting to see what they are.
Interesting. They are REALLY involved with the NBA, but I don't think their commercials do a good job of promoting reasons to visit.
Dear Derek,
It is indeed a fascinating place. But please do look further into human rights and labour laws / protection.
With thanks
This one hurt to read.
It's a rare country indeed that a wealthy, well-connected person cannot enjoy. I do not begrudge you your enjoyment. But do not act as though the people who dislike the UAE and Dubai in particular are victims of prejudice and misinformation or are living in a negative space and unable to see the positive.
I'm sure this will come across as just another negative comment to be ignored. But I cannot be silent. The UAE and Dubai have a well-documented and terrible track record on human rights and Dubai is NOT as safe a place for everyone as it was for you. This is not a matter of prejudice but of fact. It is not a matter of sordid history but of very concerning present.
I have been to Dubai. I will never go again. There are many beautiful, welcoming, hospitable countries out there which are more deserving of the money from my wallet and the hours of my life.
Thanks for the shout out! Your blog really nails the reasons we should admire Dubai. Let's hope its model of tolerance and openness can survive the emerging era of me-first nationalism.
☺ (Everyone, Jim is the author of the great “City of Gold” book, mentioned above.) — Derek
Enjoyed reading this, Derek! Let me know when you move here ;)
Loved this! Such a good storyteller, Derek! After reading this, feeling more excited about living in this city!
Took note of some places didn’t even know existed. Can’t wait to go and explore/learn/appreciate what this vibrant city has to offer :)
Your article made me want to visit Dubai too — thanks for sharing!